Europe
Istanbul’s Amazing Grand Bazaar
posted in Europe, Featured . posted by Alex Ion on January 27, 2010 . 2 Comments
Have you ever wanted to know what it was like to go shopping before there were malls, factories, and plastic packaging? Ever wanted to be part of an authentic old-world economy, untrammeled by the forces of globalization? Perhaps you’re visiting Turkey and want to combine your souvenir purchases with a dip into the local culture. Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar bustles with activity from citizens and tourists alike, and contains all types of Turkish craftsmanship, from jewelry to rugs to pottery to coats to food.

This covered market is a cross between a shopping center and a street vendors’ paradise, occupying a grid of over sixty streets and thousands of shops, so if you’re in Istanbul for any length of time, the Grand Bazaar, or Kapali Carsi, (meaning “covered market” – the Turks are very practical labelers), is an essential point of interest.


Walking up to the main gate, a grand stone archway inlaid with Turkish designs over the entryway, you can’t help but feel as though you’re about to walk through a doorway into the past. Built in 1461 by Mehmed the Conqueror, the Grand Bazaar feels like a palace or even a temple to old-time shopping. Kapali Carsi contains two full-scale mosques within its gigantic walls, but one can’t help but wonder if the true religion here is commerce. The scents of cloves and cinnamon waft into your nose, and the shouting of the hawkers (“Hey, where are you from? Can I help you buy something?”) fills the air. Arches hang overhead, and traditional Turkish designs decorate the walls and floor.
The Grand Bazaar is separated into bedestens, or courtyards filled with related shops. There’s no way to get to every shop in one visit, but definitely check out Sandal Bedesteni, right near the entrance (on the right, marked “Old Bazaar”) for assorted textile goods. One of the oldest markets, the architecture here is stunning. Follow the Sandal Bedesteni Sokak street, take a right after it ends, follow that through two gates, then take a left at “Kalcilar Han.” This street is home to silversmiths, and is set up like a miniature factory. A piece of silver starts being worked at one end of the street, and gets turned into usable objects at the other end. It’s a fascinating slice of the Turkish economy.

Of course, because this is such an authentic experience, you have to be careful of the bad parts as well as the good parts. Bag slashers and pickpockets blend into the crowds of people, so make sure not to wear any conspicuous signs of wealth and keep your cash secure, ideally in a zippered pouch or pack close to your body. It goes without saying that if you’re carrying around identification documents or credit cards, you should definitely sacrifice ease of access for security.


Likewise, because the shop owners are also the shopkeepers, you’ll have to hone your bargaining skills. This can be a fun experience, but you have to be willing to keep up with their haggling. Turks are known for their boisterous attitudes, especially regarding their money, but don’t be put off. Go into the bazaar with an idea of how much money you have and how much you’re willing to spend, and stick to it, no matter what vendors will try to bully you into buying. Sometimes you can end up buying a product for 4-5 times less than what the seller is asking.


The Grand Bazaar in Turkey is an experience you don’t want to miss for the world. Between the delicious food, antique furniture and jewelry, traditional Turkish clothing, artwork, textiles, and master craftsmanship, surely something will catch your eye. Even if you don’t have the money to buy anything, the memories you take away will be priceless.
Images by mwanasimba, neiljs, cattardbezzina, Alaskan Dude, samoian, nicocrisafulli, kamshots, zoonabar.
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