When hearing about Moldova, you immediately think about the ethnic war waged almost 20 years ago. Few think of it as a travel destination. We did and got the chance to visit it for a few days to see how the poorest European country looks and feels like. Moldova is a small country, bordered by Russia, Romania and Ukraine that suffered from ethnic conflict throughout the 90’s. As a result of that conflict, the self-proclaimed Transnistria republic emerged, a country with its own currency but not recognized by other nations.

When arriving in Chisinau, Moldova’s capital city, by train or plane, you will be greeted by gray buildings and a general gloomy atmosphere. Air Moldova and Carpatair fly to and from Moldova, but it’s easier to enter the country from Romania. Avoid entering from Ukraine because you will have to pass through Transnistria, and very possibly be asked to pay an expensive visa or be arrested.

Moldova’s main attraction is its wine industry. If you’ll plan your visit during October, you can take part in the country’s wine festival, where you can taste wines of all types and colors. For tours among the country’s wineries, try Cricova, a city not far from Chisinau with huge underground wine cellars. Another city, Milestii Mici, is known for having the biggest Wine Collection in the world and the biggest wine cellars, as recorded by Guinness.

If you’re visiting Chisinau, don’t miss the chance to taste one of Moldova’s most famous products. The candy factory Bucuria produces candy in so many shapes, forms and flavors that you’ll feel like Charlie in the Chocolate factory. Make sure to grab a bag or two to take home.

Protests were often and widespread when the Communist regime ruled. Now, after a major riot, the country has a Democratic majority, but has still to elect a president. People here live on $2 USD a day so you won’t see the happy faces one is used to in Western Europe. This is the Parliament before it was ruined by demonstrators:

Moldova is a delight not only for wine aficionados, but also for gourmands. You’ll find particularly interesting potato and cabbage pies. Food is generally cheap and tasty, no matter where you eat, as opposed to accommodation which is unusually expensive considering the country’s economic situation.

If you’re feeling particularly brave, you can also visit Transnistria, the country that does not exist, and that makes Moldova look like heaven. At the border, soldiers with guns and tanks greeted us. If it wasn’t for our escort, we would have surely been asked about our visit and possibly got into trouble.

The city right next to the Moldavian border bears the mark of the civil war – building walls have bullet marks all over, people are afraid to talk to a foreigner and the streets are empty. Prices are very low, even compared to Moldova; if you made it, don’t leave without buying a couple a bottles of Kvint, cognac of the finest quality, all at dirt-cheap prices.

Also, if you plan on visiting this region, make sure you register with the Militia and communicate the dates of your journey to the Embassy of your country. People are generally very helpful and friendly, but many do not speak English and you will need a guide to get around.

All in all, Moldova is a great destination for wine lovers and gourmands, but also for those wanting to experience first hand a real Communist theme park. It’s a low-budget destination not for everyone, but fascinating in its own way.

Photo sources: Personal collection & Wikipedia Commons (wine cellar photo)

Popularity: 1% [?]