Commonly known as Kokedera, or the Moss Temple, Saiho-ji is home to one of Kyoto’s most famous tourist attractions, the moss garden. Over 120 types of moss cover the garden grounds, creating some of the most beautiful and relaxing sights in Japan.

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The origins of Kokedera can be traced back to the Nara Period (710-794 AD), when it operated as a temple of Amitabha, the first Buddha of Western Paradise. Legends say famous priests, like Kukai or Honen, served at Saiho-ji temple, but this didn’t prevent it from eventually falling into ruin. In 1339, the famous Japanese gardener Muso Soseki was summoned to restore Saiho-ji, as a Zen Temple, and his design is a major inspiration for modern Japanese Gardens.

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Located in the eastern area of Saiho-ji Temple, the moss garden is centered on the Golden Pond, a body of water shaped like the Chinese character for heart or mind. There are three islands inside this sacred pond (Horai, Tsuru, and Kame), and the Japanese people believe they symbolize the Buddhist idea of paradise. Ironically enough, the moss had nothing to do with the original design of Muso Soski, it settled in on its own, after a flood, and kept spreading because the locals didn’t have enough money for upkeep.

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Famous for its moss-covered soil, trees and rocks, Kokedera is also known as one of the most exclusive destinations in Japan. In order to protect the delicate moss garden from the countless curious tourists that traveled to Kyoto from all over the world, temple regulations were changed in 1977, so that visitors may only be admitted by prior application. Each tourist has to send his application via return postcard, 20 working days before the desired visit date.

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But that is just part of the admission process at the Moss Temple. Upon arrival, visitors must pay a 3,000 yen entrance fee (the highest in all Kyoto), and then head over to the temple, where they will be directed to a low writing desk for the chanting and copying of sutra. This can take up to three hours to complete, especially for those unfamiliar with Japanese calligraphy. But while Japanese visitors have to copy the entire sutra, Buddhist monks often show compassion to foreigners, allowing them to proceed into the garden, if they make a valiant effort handling the ink brush.

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Only after these challenges are completed, can tourists finally take a stroll though the spectacular Saiho-ji moss garden. With green moss covering every inch of the forest floor, Kokedera is unlike any other garden you might have visited before. Most of the old structures have either disappeared completely or have been covered by the centuries old moss, making the garden a true natural paradise. In autumn, the orange-brown leaves of the Japanese maples set against the dominant green, and the sun rays coming through the canopy create a unique scene that stays with you long after you’ve left this place.

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One of Kyoto’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Saiho-ji and its marvelous moss garden, are not to be missed, despite the strict entry conditions.

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